These instructions apply to most groundcovers, ferns, vines, bare-root plants, container-grown plants, and tray-grown plugs. They are general instructions, so adjust them to the plant and the planting site. A fern for moist shade, an ivy that dislikes soggy soil, and a drought-tolerant groundcover should not be watered or sited the same way.

If a plant-specific instruction gives different directions, follow that instruction first. Otherwise, use the guidance below and pay close attention to soil moisture, drainage, sun exposure, and weather during establishment.

Consider investing a few dollars in a moisture meter and testing twice a day until you learn how much water is required how often (do not leave it in the ground, it will corrode).

Before planting

• Plant as soon as practical after delivery, especially bare-root plants and small plugs. If you cannot plant immediately, keep plants cool, shaded, and protected from drying out.
• For fall planting, it is best to plant at least about one month before temperatures regularly drop below 30°F. This gives new plants time to begin extending roots before winter dormancy.
• Prepare the bed before opening, unpacking, or removing plants from their containers. Remove weeds, loosen compacted soil, and correct drainage problems before planting.
• Do not plant into saturated, muddy soil. Roots need both moisture and air. If water stands in the planting area for long periods, improve drainage, use a raised bed or berm, or choose plants that tolerate wet soil.
• In hot, dry, windy, or very sunny weather, plant early in the morning or late in the day if possible. Keep plants shaded and keep roots protected while you work.
• Water dry soil before planting if the bed is dusty or difficult to moisten. Planting into slightly moist soil helps the root ball or bare roots make better contact with the surrounding soil.

Planting container-grown plants

• Water the plant thoroughly before planting and allow excess water to drain.
• Dig a hole about as deep as the root ball and wider than the root ball. The goal is to give roots loosened soil to grow into without setting the plant too deep.
• Remove the plant carefully from its container. If roots circle tightly around the outside of the root ball, loosen them with your fingers. If the plant is strongly root-bound, make a few shallow vertical cuts through the outer root mat and gently pull some roots outward.
• Set the plant so the top of the root ball is level with, or slightly above, the surrounding soil. Do not bury the crown or stems unless specific instructions for that plant say to do so.
• Backfill with the soil removed from the hole, breaking up large clods. Work soil around the roots as you fill.
• Firm the soil lightly with your hands to remove large air pockets, but do not stomp or pack the soil hard. Over-compacted soil can keep water and air from moving through the root zone.
• Water thoroughly after planting to settle soil around the roots.

Planting tray-grown plugs

• Some plants are shipped as small plugs in trays. These plants have smaller root balls than larger container-grown plants, so they can dry out faster and need more careful handling during planting.
• Before removing plugs from the tray, water them thoroughly if the plug soil is dry. Let excess water drain before planting.
• Remove each plug by pushing from the bottom of the cell or gently lifting the root plug. Do not pull hard by the stems or foliage.
• Plant plugs promptly. Their small root systems are more exposed to heat, sun, wind, and drying than larger plants.
• Dig a small hole just deep enough for the plug. Set the plug so the top of its root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Do not bury the crown or cover small leaves with soil or mulch.
• Firm soil gently around each plug so the plug root ball contacts the surrounding soil. Gaps around small plugs can cause them to dry out quickly.
• Water thoroughly after planting. Because plugs have shallow, limited roots at first, check moisture near the plug root zone more often during the first few weeks, especially in hot, dry, sunny, or windy weather.
• Use mulch carefully around small plugs. A light mulch layer can help conserve moisture, but mulch should not cover the crown, foliage, or the top of the plug.

Planting bare-root plants

• Plant bare-root plants as soon as possible after delivery. Bare-root plants may look dormant, leafless, or unimpressive when they arrive; this can be normal. The important thing is to keep the roots moist, cool, and protected until planting.
• If planting must be delayed briefly, keep the roots moist but not waterlogged. Store them in a cool, shaded place out of direct sun. Do not leave bare roots exposed to air, heat, wind, or freezing temperatures.
• Dig a hole wide enough to spread the roots without bending, crowding, or forcing them downward. Do not cut healthy roots just to fit a small hole; make the hole wider instead.
• For most bare-root plants, set the crown, upper roots, or natural soil-line mark at the appropriate depth for that plant. As a general rule, do not bury crowns deeply. If the plant has a visible crown, keep it at or just above soil level unless specific instructions say otherwise.
• Spread the roots outward and downward in the planting hole when possible. Fill soil in around the roots, working it gently among them so there are no large empty spaces.
• Firm lightly by hand as you fill, then water thoroughly. After watering, add more soil if settling exposes roots or creates a depression.

Special note for bare-root Hay-Scented Ferns

Plant bare-root Hay-Scented Fern rhizomes horizontally, parallel to the ground, about 1 inch below the soil surface. Do not plant the rhizome pointing straight up or straight down. Keep the planting area evenly moist while the ferns establish, but do not leave the soil waterlogged.

Mulching

• After planting, apply a 2- to 3-inch layer of pine straw, shredded bark, wood chips, or similar organic mulch to help conserve moisture, moderate soil temperature, and reduce weeds.
• For very small plugs, shallow-rooted plants, heavy clay soil, or poorly drained areas, use a thinner mulch layer. Too much mulch can hold excess moisture and bury small plants.
• Keep mulch pulled back from plant crowns, stems, and the tops of root balls. Mulch piled against crowns or stems can trap excess moisture and contribute to rot.
• On heavy clay or poorly drained soil, use mulch sparingly and watch moisture carefully. Deep mulch can keep wet soil too wet.
• For vines and trailing groundcovers that root where stems touch soil, such as Vinca, Wintercreeper, and ivies, use a lighter 1- to 2-inch mulch layer or leave small contact areas open so stems can touch the soil and re-root.
• When planting groundcovers with long runners, it may be easier to spread mulch first, pull mulch aside where each plant will go, plant through the opening, and let runners rest on top of the mulch or against exposed soil where rooting is desired.
• On slopes, mulch can help reduce erosion while plants establish. Use mulch lightly enough that it does not bury crowns or wash over small plants during heavy rain.

Watering after planting

Watering should be based on soil moisture and plant needs, not a fixed calendar. Newly planted roots are limited to a small area at first, so the root zone can dry out faster than the surrounding bed or stay wetter than expected in heavy soil.

• Water thoroughly immediately after planting. Apply water slowly so it soaks into the root ball, plug, bare-root planting area, and nearby soil instead of running off.
• Check the soil near the roots. Feel the soil with your finger or a small trowel. Surface soil can look dry while the root zone is still moist, or the surface can look damp while the root ball or plug is dry.
• For average-moisture plants, water when the root zone is beginning to dry, before plants wilt. The soil should be moist after watering, not constantly saturated.
• For moisture-loving plants, including many ferns and moisture-preferring groundcovers, keep the root zone consistently moist but not waterlogged. Consistently moist soil should feel damp, not soupy, and water should not stand around the plants for long periods.
• For plants that dislike soggy soil, allow the upper soil to dry somewhat between waterings. This is especially important for ivies and other plants prone to root problems in wet soil.
• For small plugs, check moisture more often during the first few weeks. Their small root balls dry faster than larger container plants and have less stored moisture to draw from.
• Deep watering means watering slowly enough and long enough to moisten the full root area, not just splashing the surface. For small plants, this means moistening the original root ball, plug, or bare-root area and the surrounding soil. For larger plants, check several inches down after watering to confirm moisture reached the root zone.
• Rainfall may not be enough. Soil under trees, roof eaves, dense foliage, or overhanging shrubs may receive much less rain than open ground. Slopes, sandy soil, sun, heat, and wind also dry plantings faster.
• Avoid automatic overwatering. If the root zone still feels moist, wait. Too much water can deprive roots of air and cause decline even when the foliage looks stressed.

First-season care

• Monitor new plantings through the first growing season. Once roots grow into the surrounding soil, plants become more tolerant of short dry periods, but newly planted groundcovers, bare-root plants, and tray-grown plugs need closer attention at first.
• During hot, dry, sunny, or windy periods, check soil moisture more often. Temporary shade can reduce stress on newly planted material, especially plants that were shipped, divided, planted bare-root, or planted as small plugs.
• Keep weeds and turf away from new plants. Weeds compete for water, nutrients, light, and space while the planting is establishing.
• Plants in sandy soil, raised beds, slopes, and containers usually dry faster and may need more frequent watering. Plants in heavy clay, low spots, or poorly drained containers dry more slowly and are easier to overwater.
• If planting in containers, use containers with drainage holes and a suitable potting mix. Garden soil alone is usually too dense for containers and can stay either too wet or too compacted.
• Do not fertilize heavily at planting unless specific instructions call for it. Watering, correct planting depth, weed control, and proper siting are more important during early establishment.

Ivy and other plants sensitive to overwatering

Ivies need careful watering after transplanting. Water thoroughly at planting, then allow the upper soil to dry somewhat before watering again. If the soil near the roots still feels moist, do not water yet. Ivies are more often damaged by staying too wet than by being allowed to dry slightly between waterings. They should not be left bone-dry, but they should not be kept constantly wet.